![]() lamps do not work here, we need a small piece of resistive wire inside which can glow white hot if needed, limiting current in the way. Or one of the newer ones which have a small filament quartz bulb inside?ġ) I assume you disconnected the secondary (3 wires) plugged into the PCB but left the 120VAC wires connected andĬFL/Electronic/Fluorescent/LED/etc. Note: you used a filament bulb, didn't you? Now if the amp innards are shorted, bulb will glow bright, whether 25W or 100W, because the amp is. Well, I start with the 25W one, which is the safest then when I *think* the amp is repaired I use the 100W one as an intermediate step, to play a few chords at, say, 10W to 20W to be certain everything's fine, the 100W one allows that but is still in the path for any gross error. Personally I have 2 bulbs nearby: the 25W one is more sensitive and *usually* glows dull red with most any SS amp, even at idle, while the 100W does not and it might be your case.Īnd why use a "too large" 100W bulb at all? ![]() Normal reaction is for bulb filament to barely get red for a second and then invisible again, because idle current in an unloaded, healthy transformer is veryn low, it also depends on bulb size. In that case you are really applying 120V to transformer primary. ![]() Click to expand.1) I assume you disconnected the secondary (3 wires) plugged into the PCB but left the 120VAC wires connected and
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |